Owner Nicole Barthélemy takes cheese very seriously at her genteel shop in the Saint-Germain neighborhood in the seventh arrondissement. The tiny space is crammed with hundreds of cheeses, including globes of mousse-like Fontainebleau cheese, made fresh in the shop each day. While browsing, be careful of the floor’s hidden trapdoor leading to the underground cheese cellar. Staff members regularly pop out carrying trays heaving with Crottin de Chavignol, Valençay, and other miniscule goat cheeses of various shapes and sizes.